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Trail Guide
Ocean & Mountain
Tidepools
Marsh & Seashore
Ocean Bluffs
Redwoods
Pocket Beach
Bird Refuge
Marine
Wildlife Refuges
Historic Coastside Towns
Half Moon Bay
Princeton-by-the-Sea
Pescadero
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TRAIL GUIDE
Ocean and Mountain
Gray Whale Cove Trail in McNee Ranch State Park
1 mile. One way. Moderate. The trail is flat once you climb the gentle
slope from the parking lot.
Park at Gray Whale Cove State Beach on the inland side of Highway One,
1.4 miles north of Montara State Beach.
Information: Half Moon Bay State Beach, (650) 726-8819
A hike on Gray Whale Cove Trail will take your breath away. Below you, the Pacific Ocean crashes against granite outcrops. To the north, looms gray-green San Pedro Mountain and inland hulks pristine Montara Mountain.
California Coastal scrub vegetation lines the trail. Look for the gray-green, thread-like leaves of coast sagebrush and the bright green, coarsely toothed leaves of coyote bush. Watch out for poison oak, which has three shiny reddish-green leaves.
Gray Whale Cove Trail is one of the best places on the Coastside to see masses of spring wildflowers such as blue Douglas irises, bright pink wild hollyhocks and glistening yellow buttercups. |
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Tidepools
Fitzgerald Marine Reserve
in Moss Beach
0.5 mile loop hike. Moderate. Check tide tables for low tides.
Take California Avenue off Highway One in Moss Beach.
Interpretive Center and docent tours.
Information: Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, (650) 728-3584.
Fitzgerald Marine Reserve is THE place to marvel at the diversity of Coastside geology and aquatic life. At low tide the exposed tidepools and the concentric rings of offshore rocks beckon you to explore. In quiet pools, look for hermit crabs, purple shore crabs, and starfish. One of the more common algae is the brown, thirty-foot-long feather boa kelp. If you look up quickly, you may catch a harbor seal watching you.
From the sheltered sandy cove at the south end of the Reserve, take the trail to the bluff tops to return to the parking lot. Walk through the tangled garden of an old estate and through a century-old forest of wind-sculpted Monterey cypress trees. In the spring, California gray whales migrate north offshore. In the summer and fall, brown pelicans skim the wave tops. |
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Marsh & Seashore
Pillar Point Marsh and Shoreline in Princeton-by-the-Sea
0.5 mile. One way. Easy.
From Highway One, take Capistrano Road to Pillar Point Harbor. Continue
past the harbor entrance to Prospect Way and turn left. Turn right on Broadway, then immediately left on Harvard. Continue to the end of Harvard. Turn right on West Point Ave. Go 0.5 mile to the Pillar Point Marsh parking lot.
Information: Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, (650) 728-3584.
Although tiny, Pillar Point Marsh is a paradise for lucky bird watchers, who have sighted here for nearly twenty percent of all North American bird species. Look for great blue herons, snowy egrets and red-winged blackbirds. This unique marsh is fed by both fresh water and salt water.
For unmatched views of Pillar Point Harbor and the Coastside, be sure to follow the trail around the point to the breakwater and the tidepools on the far side. California sea lions bask on the jagged offshore rocks. Surfers catch the famous Mavericks Wave just west of Pillar Point. |
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Ocean Bluffs
Coastside Trail in Half Moon Bay
5 miles. One way. Easy.
Park at Pillar Point Harbor on Mirada Road off Highway One in Miramar, or at Roosevelt Beach, Dunes Beach, Venice Beach, Francis Beach, or Bluff Top Coastal Park.
Information: Half Moon Bay Parks and Recreation,
(650) 726-8297
T o enjoy the Coastside at its best, take the Coastside Trail, which follows the scenic ocean bluffs between Pillar Point Harbor and Poplar Avenue in Half Moon Bay. From the trail, paths lead to sandy State Beaches.
Golden orange California poppies, bright yellow beach primroses and pale yellow bush lupines line the trail. White-crowned sparrows sing from the top of nearly every coyote bush. Brush rabbits nibble along the trail's edge. You may even see a long-legged, long-eared jack rabbit bound across your path.
Frenchman's Creek Bridge and the John Hernandez Bridge over Pilarcitos Creek off the best bird watching.
The Coastside Trail is especially popular with families.
Old Ranch Lands
Mills Creek Ranch Road in Burleigh Murray State Park.
1 mile. One way. Easy.
Take Highway One south of Half Moon Bay for about 1 mile. Turn left
(east) on Higgins Purisima Road. Notice the historic James Johnston House on your right. Continue for 1.6 miles to the marked parking on the left side of the road.
Information: Half Moon Bay State Beach, (650)
726-8819
To step into the Coastside's agricultural past, visit tranquil Burleigh Murray State Park. At the end of Mills Creek Ranch Road is a barn like none you have ever seen before. Built into the side of a hill, the long, two-story dairy barn curves along the slope on a stone foundation. This century-old barn, which combines English and Italian architectural features, may be the only one of its kind in California. It is listed in the National Register of Historic Places and is currently undergoing restoration.
Past the barn, Mills Creek Ranch Road dwindles into a verdant creekside trail, which continues for about one mile.
Mills Creek, which flows year-round, is lines with red alder, flowering currant and twinberry. The ancient pillar-like blue gum eucalyptus trees are especially impressive. |
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Redwoods
Purisima Creek Trail in Purisima Creek Redwoods Open Space Preserve
1.25 Miles. One way. Easy to moderate.
Take Highway One south of Half Moon Bay for about 1 mile. Turn left
(east) on Higgins Purisima Road. Continue for 4.4 miles to the small, unmarked parking lot at the sharp bend in the road.
Information: Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District,
(650) 619-1200
A gentle broad trail dappled with sunlight and shadow beneath coast redwoods beckons you through the Purisima Creek Redwoods Preserve. Go as far as the bridge over the year-round creek - or up the steep canyon to Skyline Boulevard three miles beyond. The serene grove at the trailhead has some of the tallest redwoods in the Preserve. Most of the redwoods are second growth -Purisima Creek Canyon was heavily logged in the late 1800's. Look for big leaf maples and red alders along the way.
The varied floral blues of forge-me-nots, hedge nettles and periwinkles greet you at the trailhead. Further on, sword fern, five-finger fern and wood fern cascade from the bank of the trail. |
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Pocket Beach
Cowell Ranch State Beach
1 mile. One way. Easy.
Take Highway One south of Half Moon Bay for 3.3 miles. Park at the
marked parking lot.
Information: Half Moon Bay State Beach, (650) 726-8819
A pocket beach brings to mind secluded privacy, which you'll certainly discover at Cowell Ranch State Beach. Over one hundred steps lead from the trail's end to a delightful quarter-mile-long sandy cove, walled in by precipitous sandstone ridges.
If the prospect of so many steps is daunting, then aim for the benches at the bluff top overlook. Ninety feet below, harbor seals bask on protected offshore rocks. You may glimpse newborn pups in March. Summer months bring brown pelicans gliding serenely along the bluff tops.
Some say this is how the Northern California coast looked a hundred years ago. |
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Bird Refuge
Sequoia Audubon Trail in Pescadero Marsh Natural Preserve
1 mile. One way. Moderate.
Take Highway One south of Half Moon Bay for 16 miles. Park at the
marked parking lot (south end of Pescadero Creek Bridge).
Information: Pescadero State Beach, (650) 879-2170
Pescadero Marsh is on the Pacific Flyway. Every year thousands of birds (nearly two hundred species) rest and feed here. Great blue herons nest in the northern row of blue gum eucalyptus trees; great egrets and snowy egrets stalk the shallows, and northern harriers glide over the meadows. The best bird watching times are late fall and early spring. The trail leads you along an old dike between marshlands - and the musical rattle of marsh wrens accompanies your every step. Pescadero Marsh is one of the most important remaining wetlands on the California coast. |
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Marine Wildlife Refuges
Rocky Beach and Open Ocean
Bean Hollow Beach Trail between Bean Hollow State Beach and Pebble
Beach.
1 mile. One way. Moderate.
Take Highway One south of Half Moon Bay for 18 miles. Park at Pebble Beach or Bean Hollow State Beach.
Information: Bean Hollow State Beach, (650) 879-2170
Spectacular Bean Hollow Beach Trail leads you between two geologically interesting, surf-splash beaches. At Bean Hollow State Beach, trace the lacy mazes on the eroded sandstone rocks. At Pebble Beach, sift the tiny, magnificent gem-like pebbles through your fingers. In the late 1800's, tourists came from all over to gather pebbles at this beach. Now, pebble gathering is strictly prohibited.
The narrow bluff trail crosses six bridges to show you harbor seals basking on the offshore rocks and magnificent coastal plants such as sea pinks, seaside daisies, bush lupines, and Hooker's primroses.
Costanoa at Cascade Ranch
2001 Rossi Road
Located off Highway One, one mile north of Ano Nuevo State Reserve.
Information: (800) 738-7477.
Costanoa is a base camp for coastal adventure. A variety of hiking trails lead nature enthusiasts into the back hills of the San Mateo Coast.
Panoramic ocean views look out to Ano Nuevo State Reserve to the south and Pigeon Point Lighthouse to the north. Beach access is available across from Costanoa on Highway One. This is noted for its deserted pristine coves and teeming tidepools. Costanoa features a general store and picnic areas, private gardens, noted environmental programs as well as lodging facilities.
Ano Nuevo Point Trail in Ano Nuevo State Reserve
1.5 miles. One way. Moderate.
Take Highway One south of Half Moon Bay for 27 miles. Turn right at
well-marked park entrance.
From December to March, elephant seal guided tours by reservation only.
Call Park Net at (800) 444-4445.
From April to November, hiking permits for Ano Nuevo Point Trail issued
at entrance gate on first-come, first-serve basis.
Note: Pond Loop Trail and Cove Beach Trail are open year-round and do
not require hiking permits.
Information: Ano Nuevo State Reserve, (650) 879-0227.
A hike along Ano Nuevo Point Trail from the old grazing lands to the sandy, windy point is unforgettable. At the point you can observe all the stages in the life of the northern elephant seal - from the birth (in January) to adulthood. Around you, plants - yellow lizard tail, blue sea rocket, and yellow sand verbena - stabilize the active dunes. Overhead soar western gulls, northern harriers and black-shouldered kites. From Ano Nuevo Island offshore come the characteristic barks of California sea lions.
Everyone comes to Ano Nuevo State Reserve to see the elephant seals, which are present nearly year round. Between April and August, they come ashore to molt. Between December and March, they come ashore to give birth and breed. |
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HISTORIC COASTSIDE TOWNS
Half Moon Bay
A pleasant stroll through the town of Half Moon Bay - what a wonderful way to walk through history! Along Main Street and along the side streets, something from the past will certainly catch your eye.
Who knows what you will discover?
1. A house built by a dashing Mexican Don
270 Main Street
Pablo Vasquez, son of a Mexican ranchero, built this redwood house in 1869. Over one hundred years ago, his fast horses, bullfights, and festive parties were the talk of the town.
2. A historic bridge over Pilarcitos Creek
North end of Main Street
Built in 1900, the Pilarcitos Creek Bridge was the first steel-reinforced concrete bridge in San Mateo County - and many people consider it quite innovative.
3. The oldest building on Main Street
326 Main Street
Not only did Estanislao Zaballa build one of the early houses 91859), he also mapped out the town.
4. The bells of Half Moon Bay
Corner of Main Street and Kelly Avenue
In the Early years of this century, school children responded to the tolling of the bell. (The bell is not in its original location.)
5. A City Hall that looks like a bank
501 Main Street
Half Moon Bay City Hall (built in 1922) looks like a bank because it once was - first, Bank of Half Moon Bay, then Bank of Italy, then Bank of America.
6. A tiny jail
505 Johnston Street
Two tiny cells and a tiny office remind us of simpler days on the Coastside during the first half of this century. The jail was built in 1911 and is open to the public. For more information, call Spanishtown Historical Society at
(650) 726-7084.
7. A church and a railroad depot
Corner of Johnston and Miramontes Streets
The small building joined to the Community United Methodist Church (built in 1872) was once an Ocean Shore Railroad depot. Between 1908 and 1920, the train ran along the ocean bluffs a mile west of town. In 1930, the derelict depot was dragged to the church to become a social hall. |
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Princeton-by-the-Sea
Pillar Pint Harbor and Princeton-by-the-Sea, once frequented by rumrunners and prohibition agents, now serve commercial fishermen and recreational boaters.
Begin your walk at the hear of the harbor - Johnson Pier. You can stroll along the pier to watch fishermen unload their catch of the day.
The trail south from Johnson Pier leads along the curving shore to the outer breakwater. Along the way, you will pass the boat launch ramps and a protected shoreline habitat used by resting shorebirds such as killdeer and great blue herons. At the outer breakwater, watch local surfers catch the waves.
The trail north from Johnson Pier takes you to the public fishing pier on the inner breakwater. From the fishing pier, around dusk, watch kwawk-ing night herons leave their roost in the Monterey cypress trees.
The town of Princeton-by-the-Sea, noted for its streets named after famous colleges, was laid out in 1908 to serve the throngs of visitors who rode Ocean Shore Railroad trains from San Francisco to explore Coastside beaches. |
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Pescadero
A New England town on the Coastside - that's Pescadero. The old frame houses and steepled churches reflect the towns pioneer Yankee roots, although today people of many cultural backgrounds call Pescadero home.
A stroll around Pescadero reminds you of American small towns everywhere. A few restaurants, grocery stores and a hardware store serve the needs of residents and visitors alike. But there is a difference. Instead of having a Main Street, Pescadero has a Stage Road running through town. Years ago, Pescadero was on the main road along the coast - and stage coaches brought hundreds of visitors to enjoy the famous resort hotels (now long gone) and Pebble Beach, two miles away.
The Pescadero Community Church, its steeple standing tall above the town, is a California Registered Landmark. Built in 1867 in the classical revival style, it is the oldest church in San Mateo County on its original site.
Many thanks to Barbara VanderWerf for the town and trail descriptions, excluding Costanoa at Cascade Ranch. |
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For more information on Coastside trails, consult these books, which are available locally and at Bay Area bookstores--
The Coastside Trail Guidebook:
Plants, Animals, Historical Lore along Half Moon Bay on the San Mateo County Coast
by Barbara VanderWerf
[$10.95. Gum Tree Lane Books. El Granada, CA]
Exploring Half Moon Bay and the San Mateo County Coast
by Nancy and Neil Evans
[$10.95. Worldview Associates, Inc. El Granada, CA] |
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